Stitch Library: Garter Stitch

Garter stitch is usually the first stitch that you learn how to do as a new knitter. Once you’ve mastered the knit stitch, you can jump straight in and produce a piece of garter fabric on straight needles by simply knitting every stitch in every row. But it isn’t just for beginners - garter stitch is useful in lots of different projects. Here we take a detailed look at how to work it flat and in the round, how to shape in garter stitch, some troubleshooting suggestions and a few lovely project ideas.

What is Garter Stitch?

Garter stitch is a stitch pattern that creates a dense and bouncy fabric. It has a good drape and is the same on both sides, so it is often used for blankets and scarves. It also lies flat and doesn’t curl at the edges, making it great for button bands and borders.

How to Knit Garter Stitch Flat

The most simple way to achieve garter stitch is to work flat and knit all the stitches in every row. Because purl stitches are just reversed knit stitches, the knit rows worked on the reverse of the fabric will be purl rows on the front. So by knitting every row you will actually be creating alternate rows of knits and purls on each side of the fabric. This is what gives garter stitch its bumpy, textured appearance, and also what makes it reversible.

It is possible to achieve garter stitch when working flat by purling every row instead of knitting (as the reversed purl rows would be knit rows). This is sometimes called ‘reverse garter stitch’.

How to Knit Garter Stitch in the Round

When knitting in the round, you don’t ever turn your knitting over; instead you just keep knitting round and round in a spiral. This means that in order to create garter stitch, you actually need to alternate knit and purl rounds by knitting one round and then purling the next, and so on.

How to Read Garter Stitch

It can be tricky to count the number of rows in garter stitch, as it consists of both raised ‘purl’ rows and knit rows which are set back (and harder to see). Each ridge on the right side is an even row, and represents two rows of knitting. In the image below there are 8 ridges, so 16 rows of knitting.

16 rows of garter stitch knitting.

Garter Stitch Tips & Tricks

Use a stitch marker to identify the right side

Because garter stitch is reversible, it is often difficult to tell the front of the work from the back. If your project has a right and a wrong side it can be really helpful to use stitch markers to tell them apart. Place a locking stitch marker on the front of the work to avoid confusion.

Slip the first stitch in each row for neater edges

Garter stitch can look a bit messy at the edges. This is because the edge stitches are being worked twice, once at the end of a row, and then at the start of the next one. One way of avoiding this and creating a neater edge is to slip the first stitch of each row purl wise.

Without slipping the first stitch.

First stitch in each row is slipped.

Slip the first stitch of each round to avoid a jog

If you knit garter stitch in the round, you will get a jog when you change from knit to purl stitches on each round. This will look a bit like a seam, and can usually be placed somewhere on your garment where it won’t be obvious. However you can avoid this jog by slipping the first stitch of each round, and then moving the end of the round one stitch over each round (use a stitch marker to keep track of this).

Watch out for stretching

Garter stitch is very stretchy lengthways, so garments knit in garter stitch will tend to stretch vertically when you wear them. The heavier the fabric, the more it will pull down, and the more it is likely to grow. Make sure to watch out for this and adjust the length of garments accordingly.

How to Change Colour in Garter Stitch

Because of how each stitch fits into the one below, stripes will look different depending on whether you change colour on the front or the back (if knitting flat) or on a knit or purl round (when knitting in the round). Choose which effect you want and change colours accordingly. For a crisp stripe always change colour on a right-side row, or a knit round.

Colour change on right side (knit row)

Colour change on reverse (purl row)

Shaping in Garter Stitch

You can work increases and decreases to shape garter stitch just like normal. Because the fabric is bumpy, increases and decreases don’t tend to stand out too much.

Increases can be worked by knitting into the front and back of a stitch (kfb), or working a make-one-left (m1l) or a make-one-right (m1r). To decrease, either knit two together (k2tog) or slip-slip-knit (ssl).

Garter stitch on the bias

Shaping can be used to knit garter stitch on the bias. To knit something with a constant width, cast on the required number of stitches, then increase at one end and decrease at the other on alternate rows. You can also create a bias square by starting with three stitches, then increasing at both ends of each right side row until you have the desired width, then decreasing at both ends of each right side row until you are left with three stitches.

Right side rows: increase (knit front and back) on the right hand edge, and decrease (knit two together) on the left hand edge.

Increase and decreases are all worked on the right side.

Fixing Mistakes in Garter Stitch

If you drop a stitch, or you need to drop down to fix a mistake, then it can be a little trickier to ladder stitches back up in garter stitch. This is because you need to identify which stitches are knits and which are purls, and pick them up accordingly. The easiest way is to grab a crochet hook and pick up v-shaped knit stitches on the front of the work then flip it over and pick up the ridges from the back (where they will be also be knit stitches). See our journal post on How to Fix a Dropped Stitch for more detailed instruction on picking up stitches.

Picking up a dropped stitch in garter fabric.

Garter Stitch Project Suggestions

Just a few garter stitch projects that we love…

The Sophie Scarf by PetiteKnit

One of the most popular patterns of the last few years - it feels like these have been appearing everywhere! And with good reason. The Sophie Scarf is a beautifully simple garter stitch scarf with i-cord edges that lend it a really polished look. Extremely chic and super useful for wrapping round your neck when there’s a bit of a chill. I made mine in The Fibre Co. Cumbria Worsted in shade St Bees Beach..

Flock Beachcomber Wrist Warmers

These beginner friendly wrist warmers make an ideal first knitting project. They are knit flat and seamed up one side, leaving a thumb hole. Perfect for keeping your hands and wrists warm while leaving fingers free for foraging and beach combing. Available as a kit containing the yarn, needles and pattern.

Image: Rosa Pomar

Pelica Vest by Rosa Pomar

Another garter stitch project that makes excellent use of i-cord edges, the Pelica vest is knit flat, top down and it’s the perfect layering piece. Surprisingly warm for a garment with no sleeves, and delightfully hobbity. You will definitely want to make more than one of these.

Mof Mof Hood by Kaori Katsurada

When it gets a little cooler you might want to swap your Sophie Scarf for a hood. This simple hood is suitable for beginners and offers a meditative break for more advanced knitters. It’s knit flat in two parts and can be made longer to work as a shawl too. Mof Mof is one of the patterns featured in Laine’s 52 Weeks of Accessories.

The Riggies Cardi by Gudrun Johnston

Riggies are the garter stitch rows referred to in Shetland knitting. This cozy oversized cardigan is one of the patterns in Grand Shetland Adventure Knits and is a great example of an all over garter stitch garment with some really clever shaping. Because of how it’s seamed, the garter rows are vertical which adds visual interest, and it has wonderfully generous patch pockets.

Gudrun Johnston has also designed a Riggies Cowl and a Riggies Beanie, which are both knit in garter stitch.